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Dominion Riverrock; America’s Largest Outdoor Sports and Music Festival!

Me, and fellow competitors 2 and 3, Alex Johnson and Angela Payne

This past weekend the largest outdoor sports and music festival took place in Richmond, VA. Totaling an estimated 75,000 people at the event over the course of three days, The Dominion Riverrock Festival was without a doubt a huge success. Joyfully, for me, too! For the second year in a row, the Dominion Boulder Bash took form with unique “cage-like” volumes composing two steep, impressive structures. The competition began on Friday with Qualifiers in the evening, then Saturday were Quarterfinals in the morning and Semifinals at night, followed by a fourth round (Finals) on Sunday. Having four rounds of competition was tiring but lightened by the friendly crew of competitors from around the country. My friends from different parts of the US all came to Richmond to compete in this one-of-a-kind event. Honestly, what I love most about competing is the vibrant energy surrounding them and the time that I get to spend with my friends, some of whom I seldom see. At each competition, we are reunited and our laughs pick up from where we left off. I love it!

One of the Structures: "The Star"

 Details about the competition…

Qualifiers we had two climbs, both of which I flashed and was tied for first with Alex Johnson and Angela Payne.

Quarterfinals comprised of two climbs as well, both of which I flashed, though this time I was the only competitor to complete both, so I was first going into semifinals.

Semifinals were at night and definitely a highlight. The crowd was enormous and the lights and show surrounding the wall were eminent. We only had one climb in this round, which I flashed, and I was the only competitor to complete the climb so I had a good feeling of confidence moving towards finals, though I was also quite nervous because I did not want to mess up and lose my lead in the final round.

 Finals were a success! I knew that all I had to do was do the climb my first try in order to win because I had been the only competitor to finish all of the others. Warming up, I felt ready for this final round, though tired from the previous long day of competition. When it was my turn, I took a deep breath and went for it. Thank you to the crowd for the positive energy! I made it to the top and felt that warm sensation of satisfaction as I topped out. Yahoooooooo =]

Here is a short video I created as well from the comp!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_S8yu04NdM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

On a separate note, amidst the competition I also went to Richmond’s top radio station’s office and aired on “Hot 100.9” and “The River, 103.7.” I will see if I can post a recording of my segment on the radio shows!

Thank you to the organizers and to my sponsors, at this event! I had a wonderful time and look forward to next year’s event.

Register at www.proclimbers.com

Next up, I am teaching a PCI clinic with Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods at Brooklyn Boulders May 26-27. If you are on the East Coast, I hope to see you there! To register, please visit www.proclimbers.com, or click Here!

Xoxoxx! Sasha <3

Around the World, and Back Again!

I am BACK in USA now, even HOME for two nights before going to Richmond, VA for the Dominion Riverrock Festival!

My time in Japan was wonderful. I loved the people, the food, the city… the overall culture was fascinating to me. This was my second trip to Asia (I went to China last fall for the Petzl RockTrip), and my first time beng in a large Asian city. First I went to Tokyo for a couple of days, and then to Osaka for the International Lead Master. In Tokyo I had the luxury of locals to show me around and to introduce me to various “traditional” Japanese cultural trends, noteworthy food-stops, and fun shops. While in Tokyo, Maja Vidmar of Slovenia and I shared an apartment. Despite being sick from either jet lag or food poisoning, or likely a combination of both, I had a great time seeing the city and meeting some people from the climbing community there.

On my second night in Tokyo I visited “Climb Fits,” and then went for a sushi feast at a nearby restaurant.

The next morning Maja and I traveled to Osaka – about a six-hour transit – for the competition. When we arrived in Osaka, it was obvious that this city was just as, if not even more, captivating as Tokyo. Tokyo is the largest city in Japan, and Osaka is the second largest. Upon arriving, we checked in to our hotel rooms and met the other competitors who were all booked at the same hotel. Our hotel was very city-central, so it was easy to explore the city, find good restaurants, and buy foreign-looking tourist objects that will most likely result to added clutter in my room, but that is okay =]

One of the fascinating sights that we visited was the Osaka Castle, situated in a gorgeous green park that was artistically groomed and kept quite pristine.

Saturday evening all of us competitors attended the technical meeting and the competition reception meeting. We had TV interviews and took pictures at the venue, then learned more about the event. The competition itself was quite strange. Instead of having a format like that of a normal World Cup in which there are three rounds – Qualifiers, Semifinals, and Finals, there was only going to be one round, on one vertical route. All or nothing!

While the format of the competition itself was strange, the spectator turnout was massive because the competition took place in the city center at an outdoor-venue. There was a parade and various markets below the competition wall, and the competition itself was broadcast on TV-screens everywhere. The organizers of the event arranged posh lounge areas where we could decompress after our climb, have food and drinks, and watch the other competitors.

During warm-up I felt ready to compete. I had been a little nervous because really I had not climbed much the past two weeks with all of the travel and the bad weather while I was supposed to be outdoor climbing, and then being sick, but nonetheless you can’t really think about these variables when competing – you just have to convince yourself that you are prepared whether really you are misconceiving yourself, or if it is true! The route did not feel hard to me – it was on an artificial wall, so different from what I have been doing lately (climbing outside), but being climbing nonetheless, I didn’t really feel as though it was so challenging. Unfortunately on the last move of the route I got a little bit of tunnel vision with the top being in sight and I forgot to move my foot up to make the final move and I slipped off. I was disappointed in my ending performance but not too upset because I knew that it was a strange format and I didn’t really feel like it was my lack of preparedness that kept me from sticking the last hold. Being a one-route, one-round competition, my end result was 5^th after time-breaking ties. Oh well! At least every one of the competitors earned their invitations due to their top performances in the World Cups, so the women that beat me are my strong, international competitors. And my friends, which made the experience all the more fun!

Me and fellow competitor and good friend, Jain Kim, of Korea

Our athlete's Table at the Ceremony

For the closing event the organizers and sponsors of the event arranged a grand ceremony and while I did not recognize the party-goers because for the most-part besides the athletes, they were all Japanese, apparently we were in the presence of some quite famous people, including the Mayor, Japanese celebrities, and Japan’s “top comedian” who performed. In Japanese…

ALSO, there was an extensive Japanese feast including a full tuna prepared Sashimi style. Absolutely delicious. I felt as though I was going to turn into a fish myself though, after all the delicious seafood I had

 Now I actually have two days at home before I travel to Richmond, VA for the Dominion Riverrock Event. I will follow up with more information about that in the next few days, so check back later!

Sayonara Japan, Arigatou!!

<3 S <3

Up in the AIR… Goodbye Italy, Japan here I come!

Hello from up above !☺

Currently I am on the plane (sky wifi, woohoo!) en route to JAPAN for my first time!

After a few more relaxing days of climbing in Spain, I flew to Milan to attend the Melloblocco Event in Val Masino, Italy! Melloblocco is Europe’s largest outdoor climbing festival and the event is situated in a gorgeous mountain-town that is encompassed by enormous granite rock faces and lush green valley. Smaller granite boulders litter the landscape as well and these boulders were the focus of the event. The organizers of the event arranged select boulder problems for men and women from around the world to climb on in a relaxed “competition” set-up.

Val Masino, Italy

Unfortunately, 30 minutes after I arrived the rain came and it didn’t leave until… well.., the evening before I left! Needless to say, the relentless rain wet the valley and the granite boulders were soaked. Besides flashing the two boulder problems that I got to try before the rain, climbing was more or less totally rained out. FORTUNATELY, though, this did not dampen the mood at all. Everyone was still psyched to hang out, party, and celebrate everyone being together in a beautiful location. I had a wonderful time seeing my awesome European friends that I rarely have the opportunity to see – generally just during international events – and meeting new splendid people! Every time I have been to Italy I have been astounded by how friendly and welcoming the folks there are, and therefore it is so easy to have a great time!

I am going to Japan to compete in an invitational Lead Master. I am really excited about the competition, but maybe more so to just get to GO to Japan for my first time! Japan is a country that I’ve always wanted to visit… partially influenced by my love for sushi perhaps! This week I have not really gotten to climb, and before that I was just climbing on rock in Spain… so I hope that the competition goes well, too.. ☺ Regardless – it’s Japan with my friends, so a good experience is destined! More to come from Japan, ciao for now!!!

Xox <3 S <3

Climbing Era Bella

Another 9a… Like a DREAM :)

Era Bella, 9a

Today… Another 9a SEND! This morning I woke up abnormally early due to jet lag and felt fired up to go try my pending project that I sadly left incomplete after my last trip to Spain at the end of March. Era Bella, 9a… A BEAUTIFUL route in Margalef, Spain, that was established by Chris Sharma. The temperature was brisk but not too cold and there was a slight wind. Maybe it was my dreams of succeeding on the route that aided me to the top!!! I had never worked on a route and left it unsent before and after leaving Spain I immediately booked my flight back for my next available calendar date. The route was on my mind and I needed to try it again! My friend recently told me this proverb, that I wish I knew who to originally quote for, that states; “What you get by achieving your goals is not nearly as important as what you become by achieving your goals.” Through this process I’ve definitely learned that while things may not come easy at first that does not mean that they are not possible!

Era Bella was my longest “project” yet… more than 3 days of effort… and definitely introduced me to the emotions of working hard towards something and not initially succeeding. I know that there are tons of routes out there that will require much more time and effort, and I am ready to confront these challenges! I guess my only problem is time – often I am not at one location for too much time because I like to experience new routes everywhere, and I have other commitments, but with inspiring routes like Era Bella, it is easy to become fixated on a goal. =]

Now I have until May 3 to climb in Spain with no real agenda, then I am going to the Melloblocco Event in Italy!

Time to continue the fun!!!!! VAMANOSSS!!!!!!!!!

STAY TUNED FOR VIDEO AND PHOTOS!!!!!!!! 

XOXOOXX

S <3

EastWARD Motion!

Photo by Cort Gariepy: Central Rock Pro Finals

My journey around the world moving eastward is well on its way and off to a successful start! After departing from the limestone rock in Southwest Utah, I arrived in Boston, ready for the next events on my April calendar! To begin with, I spent Friday, April 20 teaching two separate clinics at MetroRock Climbing Center in Everett, MA. First, I worked with a talented and enthusiastic group of youth climbers, then later that day, I coached a group of equally excited adults in a clinic in which all proceeds went to HERA; a nonprofit Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation. I’ve realized that sometimes after trying to help others improve, I find the reiteration of technique and the mental foundation of climbing really helps my scope on climbing and aids my personal improvement as well. The perspective I gain from teaching climbing is rewarding. Also, working with others eager to learn and improve inspires me to want to progress forwards.

HERA Clinic

Body Positioning Routine

The Central Rock Pro Competition took place in Hadley, MA the following day. Another success for me =] Qualifiers were in the morning, and in the evening were finals. I led both rounds in the company of a strong field. The men’s field was incredibly strong as well and this competition’s attendance approached the registrant list at US Nationals. Central Rock fully fulfilled this role in hosting a great competition. The crowd turnout was spectacular and the final round was amazing! Both the men and women’s final routes covered a dauntingly large and steep head wall that was decorated with impressive volumes, features, and new holds. The fervent energy of the crowd helped me to the top. Thank you for all the support everyone, and thank you Central Rock for a great event!

Finals Wall

Side Note: The competition was held at Central Rock’s newest location; however, 2 years ago I worked with Big Up Production at Central Rock’s other location also in Massachusetts. This is the short film that we produced;

The Insiders

Now, continuing with my eastward motion trend, I am in Spain. Back to the ROCKS!

Stay tuned, I will be trying “a muerte” in sport climbing’s mecca!

 Happily Livin’ my DREAM =] Follow YOURS!

<3 S

From West to East; Onwards with the Travels!

Photo by Chris Noble; www.noblefoto.com

I spent the duration of my Southwest Utah trip climbing at Cathedral. The limestone cliff is located just outside St. George, Utah and is surrounded by a vast, open, mountainous landscape. The countryside feels immense and unchartered. I love this feeling of wilderness while climbing outside and this aspect of Cathedral was much different than the situation at the Virgin River Gorge (overlooking the highway).

St. George, Utah!

Life was tranquil and enjoyable – climbing, which was captured beautifully by Chris Noble, hanging out with friends, and admiring the overwhelming abundance of nature. Simple trips like these are always rejuvenating for me; my passion for climbing outdoors continues to mount as I breathe in the fresh air around me and joyously live fully with friends. 

Climbing at Cathedral: by Chris Noble; www.noblefoto.com

 My climbing was successful and I was happy to clip the anchors to several challenging routes including Half Baked Half Broken, Indulgence, and Resurrection (all within 3-tries). Fortunately these routes were fully dry but the other route that I tried, Golden, remained wet and so I will have to return to climb it as well at a later date. =]

Friday I will be teaching a clinic in which all proceeds go to HERA, a nonprofit Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation. If you live in MA, want to climb, and are nearby Metrorock, I really encourage you to help support the cause!

THEN Saturday I have another competition at Central Rock, so come check it out – the buildup has been great and I predict an awesome sports-action-packed event!

=] xox =]

S

“Atonement:” Another FFA :) UTAH CLIMBING

Sending "Atonement"

Following Nationals in Colorado I flew to Las Vegas to climb outside in Southwest Utah at some famous limestone crags. The weather has been pretty sporadic; to start, it was really quite perfect (though hot for some maybe!)… warm and sunny! Then, the storm came in and it was movie-day time due to cold weather, dark ominous clouds, and pouring rain. Today the skies cleared and I went back to the Virgin River Gorge to climb. I had a successful day =] I did the first female ascent, 2^nd ascent (after Jonathan Siegrist!), of “Atonement;” a sustained crimpy limestone test piece.

"Atonement"

Chris Noble was on-scene shooting photos, and as per usual, he captured some great shots!

Chalking up for the little holds!

Tomorrow I will go up to Cathedral to climb in the big cave again, which hopefully is all-dry!

The purpose of this trip was to shoot photos for an upcoming book that Chris Noble is writing and doing the photography for, contracted by Falcoln Guides. However, in the meantime I have also had the opportunity to hang out with the amazing people at LifeStrength. The company is conveniently based out of St. George and I am so excited for our new partnership! 

Russian Ad all ready to go!

Review: Welcome to the Hood!

I was sitting on the plane watching Welcome to the Hood when I noticed the lingering attention of the others around me onboard the flight, curious of what sports-action film I was watching. I had my head phones on (I’m not THAT annoying on the airplane..!) but the filming alone drew the attention of people in close proximity to my laptop screen. PRAK Media has done it again – provided the climbing community with another high energy, boulder-focused movie featuring premium bouldering destinations in France, Switzerland, and Austria. The Hood includes America’s own Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods, Finland’s Anthony (Andy) Gullsten, and Austria’s Guntram Jorg. In Welcome to the Hood, these four strong boys demonstrate to all of us how to pull hard, work hard, and be motivated. I highly recommend this short film if you are in the mood for some raw hard climbing and footage of neat landscapes! Props to you boys from the Hood and to all of the contributing filmmakers for illustrating a high-energy video! 

2012: Reigning US National Champ :)

Photo by Julian Boyd

This past weekend I flew to Boulder, Colorado to compete in the Sport Climbing National Championships at Movement, Colorado. This was Movement’s second year hosting the event, and in October, 2011, the IFSC World Cup took place here as well. Needless to say, Movement does a great job with competition venues and garnering enthusiastic crowds.

Qualifiers were Friday, April 5, World Cup, Flash-format, style. I was the only woman to successfully complete both routes so I led the women’s field going into finals on Saturday. Finals took place the following evening, Saturday, April 6. We had one route to preview and onsight. This is also typical World-Cup style, finals format. Again, I was the only woman to successfully complete the route and therefore, I was the undisputed champion =]

Photo by Caroline Treadway

This was my third year in a row winning the US National Championships and so far I haven’t fallen… =] I guess I have better be extra-prepared for next year!

I would like to extend a thank you to USA Climbing organizers, volunteers, and judges, and to UBC and Louder than 11 for covering all media and exposure angles. The talented crew at Louder than 11 is produced a highlight video of the competition as well, check it out!!

Now I am going to Southern Utah for a photo shoot with Chris Noble, the photographer that did the majority of my photos featured on my website, and to climb outside!

I can’t wait to get back on some rock!

Later xox! 

Life is Just So SWEDE!

This past week I traveled to Stockholm, Sweden for the Tierra Boulder Battle and to climb some Swedish Granite. I could not have anticipated how cool and friendly all the Swedish people are and how great of a time I had!  I was staying with one of my best friends, Mathilda Soderlund, whom I have known previously through competitions. She is a great competitor and climber, but she also knows how to have fun. This was easy because we have very similar interests and hobbies… shopping, baking, watching movies, painting our nails pink… I suppose the typical “girly” stuff but hey, that’s what we are! =]

Me and Mathilda - Climbing Outside!

The Tierra Boulder Battle was an invitational bouldering event that was unlike anything else I have done. Five men; Nalle (Finand), Nacho (Spain), Magnus (Norway), Robert (Sweden), Guillaume (France), and five women: Shauna (UK), Mathilda (Sweden), Tina (Norway), Melanie (France), and I (USA) were invited. The first day of the event we were each given a section of the bouldering wall and a batch of holds to set with. We had 5 hours to set a boulder problem that was ideally stylistically unique, challenging, and entertaining to watch.

K2 Climbing Center in Stockholm, Sweden

Afterwards, we had two hours to try each other’s boulder problems and to make slight changes depending on the others’ suggestions. I had never set a boulder problem before, so this was a new challenge for me! Nalle and I both had the white/green/black holds to work with and conveniently he wanted to use all of the biggest slopers/pinches and I wanted to use all of the little crimpers, so my problem was comprised of a lot of bad small holds. Although it took a lot of time to set, I was quite satisfied with my boulder by the end of the day. I made it decently long and technical with a foot-first gymnastic move in the middle while transitioning from the roof section to the more vertical section of the wall. The other girls’ problems were well set. Melanie’s problem was the hardest for me, though, because she decided to put a running-jump start to 2 double-dynos in a row. As many of you know, dynoing.. especially double dynoing.. is NOT one of my fortes and I struggled to reach the start holds from the running-jump position. Maybe some of you can help me with this weakness!

My boulder is the black/white/green holds!

The following day I went shopping and exploring downtown Stockholm with Mathilda, Daniela, Shauna, and Tina. We also climbed a little with the sponsor-representatives of the event at the K2 Climbing Center.

Pretty and Pink. Surprised?

Saturday before the event Mathilda, Daniela, Shauna, and I made and decorated pretty cupcakes. There’s nothing better than fresh baked sweets to snack on

Afterwards we went to the Bouldering Event at K2. The gym sold-out tickets and the show was great! There were dramatic effects including a smoke-maker for the athlete presentation, and an enthusiastic commentator drove the event and the live streaming coverage. Overall it was a very interactive, newly formatted event with high energy and a fun crowd.

Sending Crystalbanditt; Swedish GRANITE!

For the duration of my trip I enjoyed some of the Stockholm nightlife, hung out downtown, experienced typical Swedish culture – like making “Swedish Meatballs” from scratch, and I climbed outside on some Swedish Granite.

My last day I did the first female ascent of “Crystalbanditt” in Svarttjarn – a very short sport climbing area just outside the city with bouldery routes about 8 meters tall..! It was very sharp and powerful, but neat climbing and good rock quality.

Now I am in transit – in London currently actually – connecting for a flight home. It’s kind of ironic because just the other day I mentioned my desire to go to London, and here I am at the airport! Unfortunately, my lay over is not long enough to leave the airport, but hopefully I’ll be back again soon for a longer journey!

I will be home for a few days, then I am flying out to Boulder, Colorado for USA SPORT CLIMBING NATIONALS!

New Cover - USA Climbing 2012 Magazine!

Time to get in some last-minute training before the competition! And some relaxation downtime at home is always nice … =]

XOXX <3 S